The “Cecina on the Rock,” a chickpea crepe with pickled onion and tapenade served on a Himalayan salt brick, had good rapport with a Roma rosso red blend from Lazio. Savory almond notes in a glass of the Tuscan white il templare accentuated the creaminess of a riff on cacio e pepe with ravioli, while the wine’s electric herb and pear aromatics brightened a swirl of green pea puree.

No dish is intended to be paired exclusively with one wine, since different partners bring out different traits. Fragrant herbs and earthy chanterelles in a slow-cooked, roasted lamb volcano, came to the foreground with a glass of vibrant ruché, but a richer barbaresco accentuated the gaminess of the lamb.

Clearly, getting schooled on Italian wine at Mulino a Vino is a delicious path to an education.VILLAGEVOICE